Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts

Monday, 15 September 2014

Une Autre Belle Église: La Madeleine

View of La Madeleine from the other end of Rue Royale
(Yes, I was stood in the middle of a road #realtourist)
I'm afraid I've not been very good at keeping up with all of this! It's difficult when lots happens in a couple of days - especially when I don't have much access to internet (only on my French phone which is really hard to type on, plus all my photos are taken with my English phone... complicated).

I've got loads to post about my time in the Vosges still which I have yet to write, and have lots of interesting stories to tell about Cherbourg which, as I'm not writing them daily, I'm forgetting. This is really annoying as some of them are really funny - especially the ones including Marc!

Anyway, to help me catch up I'll just do what I did for my last post (Juste Un Autre Touriste à Paris) and add my photos of La Madeleine with captions...

While I was at La Madeleine there was a Christening. I walked in when they were about half way through (I think) right before the baby-head-water thing. They had a violinist playing 'Ave Maria' and a few other similar tunes which was quite nice.

Apparently the Bishop of Paris in the 12th Century stole the sites from French Jews, and built a church on it dedicated to Mary Magdalene. Then, in 18th Century (ish) Napoleon came along and decided to built a grand temple dedicated to the glory of his Army. I believe the design ideas came from the Roman temples (Pantheons) because Napoleon thought they were great conquerors too (or something...). For more, and potentially slightly more accurate, info about Madeleine, I'd suggest Google or Wiki. Good luck!

Now on to the photos!

Inside La Madeleine...

The inside of La Madeleine towards the front
(I'd love to give the technical names for the inside of a
traditional French Catholic Church,
i.e. Knave, Aisle, Altar, Baptistry etc. but I don't know them...
#NotCatholic #what'supwiththehashtags!?)

Angel Statue (I know, detailed stuff...
There was no guided tour for La Madeleine!
This was one of those 'Pay 4euros to light a candle' things like in Notre-Dame.
Lovely paintings on the ceiling
As you can see, it was no where near as busy as Notre-Dame.
I suppose no one wrote a famous book about it...
This was a memorial for soldiers in the Parish
who lost their lives in World War I and II
A list of the soldiers' names 
The Organ (above the main entrance doors)
Apparently this is where the grand one is in Notre-Dame, but totally missed it if it was there!
They had an Organist playing for about an hour from 2pm
(about 20 mins after the Christening). Was quite nice really.
Another Statue. No idea who it's supposed to be.
A Statue of post-resurrection Jesus

Back outside...

There were some really pretty flower beds
at the front of La Madeleine
Asian couple having a wedding photoshoot
on the steps/by the pillars outside La Madeleine.
Why not by the flowers I don't know...
Check out that dress! Just, umm, wow?! It was so sparkly/blingy too!
But you probably can't see too well from the picture.
My personal favourite is the HUGE bow. I think there was one of the front too...
There were loads of statues of different Saints
all along the sides of the church.
In case you didn't guess, this is Saint Adélaide.
The back of La Madeleine
The gates/doors were closed from this side so it was completely deserted
(except for a load of kids climbing on the other side of the fence and picking all the flowers)

"Eurgh, Humans. Think they own everything!" "Probably *American*"
But first, let me take a selfie...

P.S. I've made this large so you can see the lovely detail on the church,
not cos I think you should take a good look at my face!

Juste Un Autre Touriste à Paris

Boulevard Malesherbes, Paris
On Sunday, the family went off to Church in the centre of Paris, and then out to lunch with some friends, leaving me to entertain myself in Paris for about 4 hours (not difficult in such an interesting city).

They parked in an underground car park just before 11am, and we agreed to meet at La Madeleine at 3pm.

I did lots of wandering around between Boulevard Malesherbes, along Rue Royale and Rue de la Madeleine, etc. and took a lot of pictures of buildings and interesting shops. I don't actually have a huge amount to write about here, but thought I'd share my photos with you.

Place des Saussaies
(A little pedestrian triangle with benches
and surrounded by lovely buildings)

Place des Saussaies


Window Display at Maxim's
(Rue Royale) 
View from the end of Rue Royale
10 points if you can spot the Eiffel Tower

I had planned to walk over to the Place de la Concorde
and then to the Avenue Champs-Élysées
but my feet were hurting...

I'd love to tell you what this is, but...
Window Display for some kind of
designer sculptor 
on Place de la Madeleine

View south towards the Concorde
(Rue Royale)

La Concorde


Ladurée
A famous patisserie on Rue Royale, Paris

Macaroons
(these were something like 7€ for a box of 3!)

Amazing selection of cakes! 
(super expensive though)


Un Petit Café Parisien

Real Hot Chocolate!
Melted dark chocolate around the inside
 of the cup with steamed milk. Yum!
On Sunday, I went to a lovely little Café called 'La Madeleine 7' almost opposite the famous Olympia music hall, and just down the road from L'eglise Madeleine (its namesake).

It was lovely and quiet, probably due to the day of the week, and that it was a little too early for French lunch.

As it was too early, and as I'd not had breakfast that morning, I went for a Parisian brunch, which happened to contain rather a lot of chocolate...

A Japanese guy reading a backwards book
(took me ages to remember that they read right to left...)
This wouldn't have been such a problem but the hot chocolate I ordered was really rich, and they put a lot of Nutella on my Crêpes! I was feeling quite sick after all of that, but it was tasty though.

This Café was really nice. All the waiters spoke English like in the other restaurant I went to on the Saturday, but they were quite happy to let me try to speak French to them, and even helped and corrected a couple of times - plus they were really smiley and happy too.

This hot chocolate was so
tasty I took quite a few pics!

It was a little bit expensive. I think a hot chocolate and a crêpe was about 13€! But it was good, and it is Paris after all!


Nutella Crêpe

Sunday, 14 September 2014

Paris A La Clé De Vos Cœurs

Square Jean XXIII
Beautiful little garden behind Notre-Dame
Not only does adding the word 'Paris' instantly get you blog views (seriously, within minutes of posting 'Un Week-end á Paris' my blog views tripled for the week which I'm either attributing to the added Google clicks, or people have just suddenly realised how fantastic I am... probably Google.) but it's also a wonderful city which I will be more than happy to spend many future weekends in.

It really is a beautiful and enchanting place. No wonder they call it the 'City of Love'.

Pont de l'Archevêché










After visiting Notre-Dame, I spent some time wandering (not gonna lie, this was mainly in search of a toilet - where is the 'Visit Paris by Toilet' app I ask you??) Before public toilets, the first place I found was a really pretty little garden behind the Cathedral. It had a lovely fountain and monument in it, and lots of lovely trees and flowers. Sadly it was packed and there wasn't a free bench to be seen. Coincidentally, it also had a public toilet, however the queue for this was about as long as the one for Notre-Dame itself, so I decided to desert the little garden in search of a café.
Love Lock Bridge - Pont de l'Archevêché

I wandered in what I think was a southerly direction, and almost immediately came across the famous Parisian Lock Bridge - the one on Pont de l'Archevêché, not the original one that had all it's original locks cut off my an Arts student, or the one that partially collapsed due to the weight of romantic metal (I think that these two are the same actually...)

I find these bridges interesting, but they also have an air of depressing wistfulness for the singletons among us, just like the rest of Paris as, let's be honest, it's for all those loved up couples out there. Paris is sadly just one of those cities filled with couples french kissing - and I don't mean the common friendly greeting kind either!

On the other side of the Pont de l'Archevêché was lots of painters and stalls with touristy gifts, art and postcards to sell. It was here that I found what I was looking for - cafés/restaurants with toilets!

View of Notre-Dame from Pont de l'Archevêché
I used my lovely 'Visit Paris' tripadvisor app to pick out a suitable venue. Most of them looked lovely but some had been rated with bad comments about food/service/facilities, and others had been given 'lovely, but will cost €€€'. In the end I gave up with Tripadvisor and stopped at what looked like a pleasant, reasonably priced cafe/restaurant called 'Cafe Panis'.

The restaurant was quite nice. I thought it would be a good chance to practise my french, but all the waiters just spoke to me in English regardless. They were even speaking to french people in English! It was very strange. Perhaps, as they were busy, it was just quicker for them to talk in English than to wait for me to struggle on in French...

It took me a little while to get served as the place was packed but once I did everything was great.

French Onion Soup
topped with Croutons and Cheese
I had been sat in the dark inside but as soon as some girls left, I asked if I could move to their spot so I could sit by the open patio windows. This was good for views, but people kept using it as a door and squeezing past me while I was eating. There was a door like 5 feet right so this was extremely rude in my opinion! The other bad thing about Paris is that everyone is smoking all the time. Gross.

Chicken Escalope on a bed of rocket, served with Ratatouille
I was starving (it was nearly 3pm) so ordered French Onion Soup to start, and Chicken Escalope with Ratatouille for my mains. It took a while for my soup to arrive but it was tasty - a proper soup with bits of onion in it, and with croutons and cheese on top! My main was also really tasty. The chicken was marinated in a lemony garlic sauce, and served on a bed of rocket leaves. The ratatouille came in a funny little pot.

L'Hôtel-de-Ville
I had planned to get a dessert, but I was due to meet Fran & Co. at about 4:30pm and was running out of time, so didn't (just as well though really as my Fitness Pal app tells me that meal alone added up to almost 1400 calories by itself!! For those not au fait with calorie counting correlations and the like, this is 200 over my net calorie intake goal...)

These two courses were a little expensive, but pretty reasonable for Paris - around 30€ for those two courses and a drink.

At about 4ish, Fran rang to say that they were at the Jardin Palais Royal and to walk over to meet them. I didn't realise it at the time, but this was actually quite a trek, and I definitely would have hopped on the metro had I known!!

Lovely buildings
On the plus side, I did see lots of interesting things on my way over there.

I walked past the Hôtel-de-Ville which was pretty impressive, and towards lots of shops. The buildings in Paris are gorgeous and a large number were built in the Renaissance, Baroque, Neoclassicism and Rococo eras, between 16th and 19th centuries. Some buildings look similar to those in English towns such as Bath but it all still has a distinctly French feel about it!

For anyone else moderately obsessed with Harry Potter... I found 'Rue Nicolas Flamel'! To be honest, this was really exciting for me. I later discovered that Nicolas Flamel was actually a real person! Back in the 14th Century, he was known for being a scholar, author, etc. and married a woman called Perenelle (10 points to Gryffindor for accuracy J.K!) They were also known for their wealth and philanthropy, according to the omnipotent and authoritative source of Wikipedia, and financially contributed to churches and building of sculptures. After he died, there were rumours of him dabbling in alchemy, and around 1700's (300yrs after he died) he apparently appeared at a descendants funeral, ergo beginning rumours that he didn't actually die and in fact had created the Philosopher's Stone, which as we all know, produces the Elixir of Life which gives the drinker immortality.

I didn't quite make it all the way to the Jardin Palais Royal as Fran, Charly & Kids were ready to leave by 5pm (I was only 5 mins away at this point) so I just waited in the Jardin Nelson Mandela instead.

The Jardin Nelson Mandela had a really cool, brand new play area which Fran has decided they'll go back to another time as Marc would probably really enjoy it.

We headed back on the tube, arriving back at the house in Le Vésinet at around 6:30pm. We were all exhausted by this point. I went upstairs to put my phone on charge and fell asleep straight away!

That was all for Saturday. I'll post all about my trip to L'eglise Madeleine next!
Syndicat Général de la Bourse de Commerce de Paris
To the West of Jardin Nelson Mandela
Eglise Saint Eustache,
just to the north of Jardin Nelson Mandela



Notre-Dame de Paris

Our Lady of Paris

West View of Notre-Dame
Welcome Sign
Definitely worth a visit if you're going to Paris, and even better, it's free! (Technically. See below for my comments on the catholic money trap...)

I arrived at Notre Dame to a queue longer than the one at the Oblivion Ride at Alton Towers on my visit in 2006 (we had that fast-track queue jump there though). Ultimately I don't mind, there's not a huge amount of queuing going on in France and queues make the British feel at home; we do love a good queue!

Archway at Notre-Dame Entrance
Thankfully this one was moving relatively quickly, and was entertained by a variety of street performers including a female duo singing covers, a mime artist, painters, and street sellers with knock-off key rings and 3D paper cuts of the Notre-Dame.

There were also lots of people advertising guided group tours around Notre-Dame and the surrounding area in English, French, German, Japanese, Russian... These, however, would set you back between 20-30€  if you chose to follow around a dude with a bow/flag-topped stick.

Give a expected discretionary 2€ donation 
and light a symbolic tealight...
Personally, I chose to go for the individual audio tour in English. This costs you just 5€ and the hostage of some form of ID (to encourage the safe return of the audio device). On the plus side, they do take 50€ notes here, in case you were wondering! Unless you want to get arm ache by carrying it around like a telephone the whole time, thus meaning you can't listen to the audio and watch any video clips at the same time, you can turn it right up. This tends to lead to a few disgruntled looks and 'husssh' noises in your direction - it is a place of worship after all! If you want to spare yourself the arm ache, be able to watch and listen at the same time, and avoid the wrath of god-fearing Catholics, take headphones! (which I happened to have on me. Phew!)


For your 5€, you will also be given a very 'informative' bit of paper with a 'map' and numbers on it, detailing where you need to press the corresponding number for the audio tour. Until I got to about 6 I couldn't work out what it was telling me to look at. 'Look to your left and you will see a stunning example of one of the largest cathedral organs. This organ, known as the great organ, was built in....' *cue a confused me looking about wildly to see where this organ is, frustratedly walking backwards and then forwards to see if I've missed it or pushed the button too early* (N.B. I still have no idea where the organ was, or when the organ was built! Edit. The Notre-Dame Website tells me there's three, and that the great one is above you on the west entrance - so you have to turn around and look up).

Notre-Dame is a hulking great money trap for the Roman Catholic Church though, and is clearly desperate to get a minimum of 5€ from each and every one of the 13 million people that visit it each year (estimated annual income of €65 million+). There are donation boxes every few metres, tours, and even a shop (in the actual cathedral, very strange). They encourage donations for lighting tealights (2€), a mini candle (5€), large candle (15€) or a candlestick (4-10€), plus there are lots of other donation boxes too.

-
Rose Stained-Glass Window
(Probably the North)
The architecture of the Notre-Dame is really beautiful. Reminds me a bit of the gothic architecture at Hogwarts in Harry Potter (part filmed in Gloucester Cathedral).

The stained-glass windows are also very beautiful, and there are stained-glass windows everywhere. The stained-glass windows of Notre-Dame are regarded as some of the most intricate and most impressive masterpieces in architectural christian art. These were probably my favourite bit. They are so pretty and colourful!

The Cathedral of Notre-Dame is also home to some really impressive statues, and paintings. There are statues of various saints all the way around, including Saint Denis (first Bishop of Paris), Thomas Aquinas, and Joan of Arc. Some of these statues are lovely - I quite liked the one of Joan of Arc - but others are a bit odd. Saint Denis, for example, seems to always be portrayed with his head in his hands (like, detached). This does have some meaning though, Denis is said to have been martyred (by decapitation) and then to have picked up his head and walked 6 miles while preaching a sermon. Lovely...

Another very nice part of the Notre-Dame Cathedral are the choir walls which are decorated with artistic statues on both sides. One side depicting five scenes of the post-Resurrection Easter story of Jesus, called 'The Apparitions of Christ' (particularly him visiting the disciples after he rose from the dead), and the other with nine scenes of the Nativity Story and Jesus' childhood. These are really pretty and according to the audio guide have not been changed at all since they were built in the middle-ages, other than being repainted. There apparently also used to be a wall portraying the rest of Jesus' life, particularly his crucifixion but that isn't there anymore.

Rose Stained-Glass Window
(Maybe South?)
At the rear of Notre-Dame there are lots of interesting displays, my favourite of which was the little model of the Cathedral so you could see the architecture close up. There was also another little chapel which had a red glass case, supposedly protecting a thorn crown.


More Stained-Glass windows
Choir Wall with sculptures of "The Apparitions of Christ" 
Statue of St. Joan of Arc (1412-1431)
Born in Domrémy, burned alive in Rouen
as a heretic and a witch.
The decision to rehabilitate her reputation
was made at Notre-Dame Cathedral.

Thorn Crown encased in Red Glass
(Not sure exactly why...)
Statue of a Pope
 The Models of the Notre-Dame





Other Photos

North Stained-Glass Rose Window
Ornate gold box


Another little chapel - there are loads of these all
around the outside of the Knave and Aisles.

Another Shrine for Mary, the Mother of Jesus

Light one of these candles and be strongly encouraged
to fork out 5euros for the privilege.
It is a candle in Notre Dame after all...

Notre-Dame's Main Baptistry

Ornate decoration of the Saints (Entrance)
Saint Denis is the third from the left, holding his head...

Statue of the Mary and Jesus
under the arch between the entrance and exit

View of the side of Notre Dame
The Bells of Notre Dame
"Morning in Paris, the City awakes, to the Bells of Notre Dame..."

Outside the Notre-Dame, if you turn right and go around to the north side, you can see the four big bells of Notre-Dame. These are the newer bells of Notre-Dame which were made around 1850's to replace the ones melted down during the revolution. The largest bell, called Emmanuel, was spared and still rings in the South Tower.

The Bells are huge but aren't really mentioned in the audio guide or anywhere else (until you just happen to walk past them on your desperate hunt for a toilet).
           
Strangely, one of Paris' most famous novels by Victor Hugo (thanks Disney for adding to the fame), 'The Hunchback of Notre-Dame', was only mentioned once, in the introduction of the audio guide - "the Cathedral has always been a subject of much interest, and was even featured in the novel by the French author, Victor Hugo, which captured the hearts of many..."

Anyway, if you get a chance, Fran is right. It's a must-see.